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Quick Tip #6
Band Saws ~ for Straight, Curved, Scrolling & ReSaw Cutting!

Band Saw

The most important part of the band saw is the blade. I use premium quality Delta blades because they last. It is very important to select the widest blade allowable for the selected cut. Wider blades follow cut lines better than narrow blades. Premium quality blades are made from better steel that stays sharper longer. They are more affordable in the long run for this reason.

I like to tune up my band saw by first backing all guide blocks and thrust bearings away from the blade. Then the blade is adjusted so it tracks on the middle of the top band saw tire. Tension the blade so the blade width matches the corresponding tension scale.

Next adjust the guide blocks (above and below the table) so the leading edges of the blocks are positioned right behind the set of the teeth. The guide blocks are locked in place as close to the sides of the blade as possible without actually touching. Move the two thrust bearings so they are right behind the blade at rest, yet do not start to spin until cutting begins. Lock all table and parts securely before cutting. If these steps are used ~ blade drift just will not happen!

Blade Tip:
Use the widest blade possible to complete the job at hand. Wide blades produce smoother cuts.

Material Tip:
Always allow ample time for the gullet of the blade to clear sawdust from the kerf. If the blade smokes during the cut - the blade is either dull or the material is being fed too quickly into the blade.    

Specialty Tool Tip:
I always upgrade my 14” band saws with the riser block. This gives me a full 12” depth of cut and more than doubles the sculpting work possible with various blades. Plus it allows for wider board re-sawing.

Accessory Tip:
The fence with the built-in scale makes for speedy ripping and re-sawing.

Safety Tip:
Never adjust the guide block assembly if the band saw is running! Turn the saw off, let the blade stop, and then make all necessary adjustments. This is just common sense.

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